Of course I have plans to build a proper Roubo for myself in the future, but for now I thought a miniature version of a true to form Roubo would be good practice. I must point out that I am indeed crazy for thinking that I'd have enough time to get it done before Christmas.
I scaled down Chris Shwarz's Old School Roubo design so that the workbench width is 13", just narrow enough to fit through my planer. The proportions aren't perfect since I am going to make it 24" tall and 36" long, but it will be hard to miss this bench as being French.
A quick run to the Orange Menace and I've got 10' 2x4's that call themselves premium. I won't have the luxury to allow the wood to acclimate to my shop before milling. I simply don't have the time, so any twisting and warping will have to be dealt with on the finished piece.
I view common dimensional lumber as the modern day version of what used to be referred to as deal. It's not the greatest lumber, but it's plentiful, cheap and does the job. This is after all a child's workbench.
I chose 2x4's because they were the cheapest and I could glue up the top by turning them on edge, and make the legs with only two boards.
I ran them over the jointer and planer to take out some twist and square up the rounded edges. I glued up the legs while working on some other Christmas gifts.
The legs are too big to square up their ends on my shooting board. I scribe a square line using my marking knife all the way around the leg and trim it flat with my low angle block plane. I keep an old contact solution squirt bottle full of denatured alcohol close by for planing end grain. Once I learned this trick I rarely plane end grain without giving it a liberal dousing first.
I then measure the legs 1/8" over long since I know I can just plane the excess flush with the top of the bench when it's done. I crosscut these on the band saw since it doesn't have to be accurate.
I lay out the tenon and sliding dovetail on the legs. I cut the tenons on the band saw as well. I then bash out the waste between the tenon and the dovetail with a big mortise chisel. You can see how I really do tend to choose whatever tool does the job the fastest while balancing which technique achieves the desired accuracy.
I cut the dovetails on the legs using my inexpensive ryoba saw. It works well since I can make the full cut in one pass since it doesn't have a brass back like a backsaw would. I aim for staying on the waste side of the line so I can clean up these slanting edges later by paring them with a chisel. Here is the result before final fitting
When I glued the top up I didn't worry too much about the rounded edges of the lumber here. I just made sure they were flat on their gluing faces by running them over the jointer and through one pass on the planer. Afterwards I manhandled this panel into my planer, it fit by about a 1/4" of an inch. I planed out all the rough areas till the top was nice and smooth. Here is the before and after of the rough block vs. the planed surface.
This is where I pulled out the circular saw to hog through most of the crosscutting of the top. However the top was too thick for the saw to cut in one pass, I finished it up with my ryoba. More to follow...